Cherrycordia opens this week in a series of articles about the history of fashion: Let’s start with the role of Marie Antoinette in the birth of Haute Couture!
The question of if the mode is from the street, or if it is the creators who wear to the street, is one of these existential debates such as « egg or the hen, who was the first? ‘ or ‘ This dress is blue and black or white and gold?. Truth is, the fashion inspirations can come from anywhere, from the street like history, art as the last pub Tampax… inspiration is everywhere! Trends, on the other hand, leave the top.
That is a trend?
Let’s take a quote from this expensive Miranda Presley, the fashion guru virtual inthe Devil Wears Prada :
« You, you look in your closet, and you choose, here, hold this poor old sweater for example because you want to signify to others that you take you too seriously to be interested in the clothes you need, but what you don’t know is that this sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise, it’s not lapis. It is blue Cerulean, and you are also perfectly unconscious of the fact that, in 2002, Oscar for the Renta has created a collection of Cerulean blue dresses and I think it’s Yves-Saint-Laurent is this not that created blue Cerulean military jackets… I think need us a jacket… Then the Cerulean blue quickly appeared in the collections of eight different stylists, and then the trend has influenced most of the Department stores and then spread in cheap shops in claims places where you have no doubt found your in a large bin of sweaters sale. Anyway, that Cerulean Blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs, and I find it quite amusing that you think have made a choice that was dictated by the fashion industry while in fact you are wearing a garment that was chosen for you by the people who are in this office in the middle of a pile of clothes. »
See also: The offices of style, these people who “make” the trend
A trend is exactly this: a fashion product designed upstream by the creators for an elite target, which then spreads to a wider audience to reach the population of mass in simplified and more accessible version. What are these same trends that feed the phenomenon of probate is to dress: we are standardized because trends infiltrate, invade our stores very quickly and determine for a short period what is «fashion”.
Because they get tired just as quickly, and because he must push people to buy, they must be renewed regularly and always offer new elements.
See also: Trends spring 2015
The seventeenth century, a turning point for fashion
Trends start so early, and in the seventeenth century, from the top means leave of the Court. Since antiquity, the fashion was an emblem of power reserved for a privileged few, because birth dictates appearances. We will uniform codes of a certain class to view and claim his status.
Versailles is no exception to the rule: better that a post-it on the front, your clothes immediately announces your condition. If you are a peasant, flax used you’re dressed as proof of originality is risking to go for a crazy good for asylum. But if you’re noble, madness is life, then you the frilly!
Despite the exuberance of this era, Louis XIV submits men and women to a strict protocol. Clothes differentiates individuals of the Court according to their rank and all fancy stems from the wishes of the King. If the tousled hair of a young woman after a crazy ride charm the Sun King, all the women of the Court are quick to raise their hair the same way. To copy the favorites, but these are the men who spend the most in this game of seeming…
Fashion in Versailles, it turned out, follow the label without taking risks. We find the collective behavior of imitation but there is no spontaneity, no sense of personal style, because fashion belongs to the King – and please the King, is to guarantee its place and its privileges to the Court. Our ruthless Anna Wintour isn’t so Louis who decides what is in or out.
This operation could have much longer! If we are not condamne•e•s to copy the look of our dirigeant•e•s (sweet Jesus), it is thanks in part to two women: Marie Antoinette and Rose Bertin. We know tou•te•s history of our Austrian Queen addicted to shopping and beheaded in 1793 after ruining the State coffers by its foolish orders. If it is certain that she was not an exemplary Queen and his frenzy for the clothes wouldn’t Anna Dello Russo, often underestimated his role in the creation of the Haute Couture!
See also: History of fashion – heeled shoes
Marie Antoinette and the freedom of creation
Marie Antoinette is passionate about fashion to the bottom of his guts (as much as I revere the chocolate), and swears by the girly and furbelows, from kids to toes -from the roots to the tip of the toes, shall we say. Scented rose, Lily and violet, she dedicated a love boundless ornaments but mostly Accessories: shoes encrusted with precious stones, jewels, pearls, feathers, ribbons, besides its monumental and architectural hairstyles in the Philadelphia, the Cleopatra to her insurgent by his loyal Leonard… She could be the sister of Barbie, basically.
While this is different from a simple Shopaholic? What differentiates Walt Disney of a simple designer, Coco Chanel to a simple Designer: a vision and a great deal of Audacity. The Queen receives her passion as an art, she likes and wants to create… but create, to freedom. This freedom, she’s going to grant him despite the label, but she won’t do it alone. It is in tandem with his Minister of the modes, Rose Bertin, she’s going to shake up the codes and etiquette.
Rose, it’s the dressmaker in vogue at the time, but she goes by far. Commoner was born in Abbeville, she quickly learned the precepts of sewing with her aunt, but also to write, read and count, point essential to this business-woman. Committed to 19 to the mark Galant, renowned Parisian fashion house she quickly opens his own store, Le Grand Mogol, in the District of Paris Luxury. She runs then thirty employe•e•s and dressed all important women of the time, especially because she specializes in clothes of presentation to the Court that it modernizes in its own way.
The competition is very tough and jealousy currency current: many try to steal his clients. But his talent, powerful and undeniable, eventually paid off. The Duchess de Chartres introduced him to Marie-Antoinette and Rose has what is called « the social elevator»
Is a key between two ambitious passionate encounter, and they will immediately undertake to develop their ideas, even if a little shake up tradition. They spend hours together; fashion becomes a full-time concern. Rose deals an equal with the Queen and princesses, thing rare to the limit of insolence, tolerated because of his immense talent. For the first time, a seamstress takes the reins and does not merely follow the Royal wishes. Rose suggests, has Marie-Antoinette.
Together, they are many trends such as the dress on the Polish, pierrot, the thigh of nymph… and especially the famous shirt dress, a long tunic of white chiffon belted over a corset, created for daydreaming about the Trianon.
Like Chanel, the two friends want to give more comfort to the outfits and simplify.The heavy robes decorated with gold, Marie-Antoinette prefer city clothes, light and modern, a concept that all women will be eager to copy. She often refuses to wear the brace to whales and limited official use of bulky baskets to elbows under dresses. As, gradually, the outfits leave more freedom for the body and to relieve.
Marie Antoinette wants to become an icon and surprise at each of his appearances. Rose made her so discover many fabrics light and easy to handle to diversify maximally outfits; the Queen will draw even a few dresses! After the strictness of classicism, a wind of lightness and baroque fantasy hovers over the fashion world and has an impact on the activities of the Palace: weekly dances, theatrical performances, dinners, amusements and entertainment… Marie Antoinette wants to be entertained and take every opportunity to display his new creations, so fabrics and accessories orders nearly double each year, leading to substantial expenditures.
A complete outfit can reach almost 5000 pounds! The King does not approve, but he prefers to see Marie-Antoinette concentrated on his hobbies than on politics.And then when you love, there are no, isn’t it?
Aestheticism and icons: the birth of Haute Couture
This is a complete reversal: this is no longer the King but the Queen who dictates fashion and trends. But more than anything, is no longer the Protocol which dictates the propriety but aesthetics, and this is the real revolution. If social segregation and status are always present in the outfits, it however most designs them by obligation or conformism; It designs them for pleasure! And this, through creativity.
Before Marie Antoinette, a great designer was privatized. But the Austrian wants value creators, stimulate the fashion trades, and put the best elements on the front of the stage.
Each of its models is unique, she has exclusive rights, but they are subsequently adapted then circulated among the merchants of fashion (all the aristocracy wants them), then the world of the show and finally foreign Queens. The real concept of trends appears finally. We have one that designs, Rose, andinfluence, the Muse, the reference which propagates. Haute Couture was born and the pyramid scheme takes place: the creator at the top, the right influencers underneath, then an increasingly wide to customer base. Until the next trend, in a constant renewal.
He didn’t also take wait Closer and Public to joke on the latest clothes of the people, because the gazettes develop and comment on latest trends as much as Manias of the Court. Bourgeois and noble give heart to joy in this wave of freedom, all let go and especially, all can be observed.
Finally, Marie-Antoinette is a bit the Lady Gaga of Versailles, still more makeup: all criticism but can’t stop to watch him. She infuriates as much as it fascinates and you wonder all the time what she going to invent as new eccentricity.
Since then, we have had many muses: Kiki de Montparnasse, Veronica Lake, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, Farrah Fawcett, Kate Moss…Why are we always attempted to tap into the look of the influencers ? Because they broadcast the news but also because they are an inspiration. These influential and high-profile women were all recognized for their particular style, and be inspired, is to give the feeling to get closer to what they embody.
I passed the age to have idols but I still secretly dreams of wearing a dress, Dolce & Gabbana (the day where I’ll be rich) to feel a little Monica Bellucci a day time, breasts and less… and that has never tapped into the look of another throws me the first froufrou! Fortunately, fashion vehicle approval but also, paradoxically, the differentiation. Whatever our inspirations to us, we have the art of customize them and take back them to create our own style.
See also: Five icons to replace Audrey Hepburn
Carry of Marie Antoinette’s frivolity, what is undeniable. But this Queen was before any one Aesthete, who had ambition beyond his personal pleasure of develop the industry of fashion and taste of fantasy, of freedom and comfort despite the rules and what people think.
Two centuries have elapsed since his death, but she inspires even the largest current creators-Chanel, Dior, Maxime Simoens and so many others, who know well that if fashion is what it is today, it is largely thanks to her. Marie-Antoinette is a Queen of shadow and light controversial, unrealistic, idealistic, reckless… and the first French hit girl !