Style and elegance, but also comfort and practicality: a shirt today, asking that and much more. Cape Prince of men’s clothing, you can buy it in different shapes and fabrics: we see the most common and read some good suggestion for a purchase of quality.
Among the oldest items of clothing worn by men you can count without any doubt the shirt, whose birth dates back to the Roman Empire and whose disclosure would continue in times to follow, so that by the end of the eighth century, one comes across the term “shirts” for the first time. Of course, it is necessary to make some clarifications.
Originally, the shirt was a sort of undergarment, which was worn under the tunic or robe. He was, therefore, very long and could be shown only through the cuts.
The purpose of this garment varied: mainly, needed to avoid contact between the skin and the roughness of the fabrics, as well as generate an element for a better personal hygiene. In the middle ages became a token of love, and in 1600 starts to be decorated with lace and embroidery, calling at a glance the social status of the owner.
The shirt may have been a garment, but in this respect not always was worn. With respect to the use we make of it today, is at 1600 that look. In fact, during the late Baroque, for the invention of a hitherto unknown ornament, tie, shirt buy importance, despite being battered by collars and cuffs, richly decorated.
In 1800, thanks to Beau Brummell, the shirt becomes the hottest clothing and dandy with his starched white collar and tie perfectly knotted. Cuffs, buttons were frequently replaced by the twins.
But we must wait until the mid-19th century to see the scene the first colored shirts, accepted only during the day and never with evening prom dresses.
The twentieth century, and the spread of new lifestyles, sees the introduction of several innovations: the shirts are made in different fabrics from cotton or linen, can be worn without a jacket and tie, starched collars and cuffs even no longer.
A last, small note of color: the shirt buttoned at the front, as we know it today, is an invention of the 19th century by the Brown Davis & co. originating in Aldermanbury.
Today, there are a lot of cheap shirts for men, models, each more suited to a context or a type of clothing. It being understood that, in some cases, the types of shirts are even passed into history, for political and cultural meanings linked to them, today there is a greater freedom of choice of garment.
If we wanted to stay in the tradition, we could certainly think at Garibaldi’s redshirts, the fascist black shirts, or even white collar workers, the classic way we refer to high-profile employees.
Of course, no one may not want to wear a certain color or pattern, without having to feel tied to the old cliché, but it’s worth remembering that some types of shirts may be unsuitable, in terms of style, in specific circumstances.
For example, in an office is good to avoid exceeding fantasies and flashy colors, privileging the classics that go well with everything, while under a dark suit or more formal attire, the white shirt is still considered a must.
With fancy jackets, such as pinstripes, should be worn only plain shirts; also, don’t forget that it’s the shirt that can be combined with a tie, while in the general harmony.
Among the more informal models include flannel shirts and Hawaiian ones, without forgetting the shirts made of denim fabric. Often, they do not have the classic buttons with loop but are made with those to clips, to highlight the informal nature of this chapter.
The flannel shirt is preferred in informal settings or manual labor, while the Hawaiian, although colorful and funny, it is suitable if you are on vacation, especially in tourist resorts.
Among the most particular models of shirt, lastly the guayabera, typical of Latin America and worn during weddings in Mexico.
The most commonly used fabrics to create a straitjacket are two, cotton and linen. Interesting, however, is also to take into account the different processes that can characterize a shirt in order to choose the most suitable to our style of dress.
We also recall that the flax fibers, often, are mixed with wool, silk, polyester or viscose, so you get the special characteristics with regard to weight, freshness of yarn or gloss.
Although the flax is more soft and breathable cotton, the latter has almost entirely supplanted in production, since the cost of production is much more content.
Wanting to list then the main types of material used for the construction of the shirts, we must remember:
- Poplin, a fabric that is achieved by weaving warps thinner weft threads;
- the Oxford, less elegant than batista or Poplin, is extremely durable and soft;
- the Royal Oxford Oxford, or even shaved, is an expanded version of the traditional Oxford;
- Sea Island, top quality fabric than Poplin, is particularly used for drawings or vivid fantasies;
- Twill linen fabric from opalescent reflections, particularly suitable for solid-color shirts;
- the Pinpoint, a mixture composed of Poplin and Oxford;
- the cotton twill herringbone, where the wires are twisted diagonally creating a zigzag effect;
- the voile, or veil, is used purely for the shirts more summer games, featuring very thin yarns, which give a particular freshness and transparency to the fabric;
- the Zephyr, which is also suitable for summer gear, is slightly less compact than Poplin, and intermediate choice for quality and value.
Finally, a special mention deserves the silk, natural fibre, is arguably the most valuable and expensive, as well as hard working. Fresh, light but interesting, silk fabric heat remains a rare elegance for both men’s shirts for women.
A good shirt is made of many little details that, taken together, give a sense of the quality of the product. So many features which tend to verify that it is a product well made and, generally, there are many details to be known in order to really say knowing how to recognize a good shirt.
The first feature to watch out for are arguably the collar and chopsticks. The collar has no buttons and has, therefore, the need to be strengthened to avoid knotting his tie, the toes curl.
Chopsticks inserted in the neck are made of plastic but some tailors rather prestigious use them even in brass. In some cases, chopsticks are fixed inside the neck and not be removed: in fact it is an interesting choice, since you so you do not run the risk of losing them, maybe during a wash.
The portion of the shirt from the neck and shoulder of base calls, instead, carré. It is important to ensure that this area is sewn separately from the rest of the head, because this small detail is indicative of good quality.
This is, indeed, a special designed by tailors who, in doing so, they were able to better adjust the fit of the shirt on the basis of the customer’s height and shoulder width. If a shirt is so stitched, it means he’s a leader particularly prestigious and also expensive, so well made.
We then go to the joints: each of the junctions between different parts should fit perfectly with regard to the coincidence of the plot or of fantasy.
The cuffs, fastening in the channel, they must present a large number of folds and a button at the height of the forearm, inserted specifically for facilitating the roll up your sleeves, if necessary. All slots should be sewn by hand.
How to choose
Choose a shirt is not an easy task, as we got to understand seeing the many features that are part of this chapter. Of course, anyone who loves tailored products will no doubt have a camiciaia confidence to turn to for the realization of important commodities, but not by ignoring the purchase at a well stocked shop, especially for daily wear.
However, having the trained eye to recognize a good quality shirt is important, so you don’t pay unnecessarily for low-value products or, conversely, be able to make a good deal, even buying a brand maybe unknown.
Definitely, the price has its own importance, but this is especially true when you want a product common: a shirt of good or excellent quality can cost quite a bit, but will certainly have features like excellent fit and durability.
Often, you cannot try on the shirt before buying for hygienic reasons, so it’s even more important to assess the overall quality of the head, before proceeding with the purchase. The fit, with a bit of experience, can be examined even without wearing the shirt: we see, then, what to focus our attention.
Cotton, as is normal, will tend to shrink to four or five washes, totaling approximately 1 cm: better, so if the neck is slightly off and the cuff a bit long, partly because the cuff should never disappear under the sleeve of his jacket, but stick out from the latter to about one centimeter.
Collar tips should never stand up, even when you feel dizzy and even when wearing neckties too heavy or with especially wide nodes. It is good for the neck does not exceed that of the jacket, because it is a sign of elegance keep it covered. Rarely it is possible with a narrow pointed collar, while it is the practice by choosing a French collar.
And finally, we come to one of those details that, really, “do” the shirt: the neck. The collar is the most important part of this particular piece of clothing and to be able to learn to recognize all types you need good training and a good guide.
We try to explain, then, what are the most common bottlenecks and how to find the one best suited to your body, the type of dress you choose to wear, ties and how to fix them.
The turndown collar is a wide neckline, straight tips, formal but without being particularly conspicuous. The distance of points varies depending on the type of tie choice, as well as the height, which should be well proportioned to the body: the high collar is suitable for those who have a long neck, a short neck will better suit with a low collar.
The cutaway collar or spread collar, Windsor or even said French collar is a collar from increasingly used and trendy. Perfect with or without a tie, the only care that you should have in the purchase it is to prefer large, loose knots, ties to span the entire width.
Pin collar resembles the French collar, but has shorter bits that are held in place by pins. Normally, just like Americans, having never won the hearts of the Europeans.
The attachable collar is known to history as detachable collar. In vogue in the 1920s, has become outmoded, nay is considered a sign of little economic availability or avarice.
The soft roll Collar, known in Italy as button down, is exclusive of the Brooks Brothers. Perfectly harmonious is a unique piece.
The tab collar, or collar tab, it is made to hold up the tie, without which it cannot be worn. This is an extremely refined and elegant collar, long used for important suits, not commonly used.
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